TECH TIPS
This is where I share my own experiences and those
of other motor heads. Absolutely no guarantee of any kind is implied on this page. You are
on your own. This information is provided for your convenience only. If you follow any of
the suggestions on this page and fry your motor or your brain, you bear all the
responsibility. That being said.
Snow Tech Magazine: The Best. Period.
ALL SLEDS Run Synthetic lubricants. We use Amsoil. Can't stress this enough. The verdict
is out and synthetics are better in every way. I don't care what the friend of your third
cousin said. If he says synthetics are anything but superior, he is full of @#$%! Ceramic
coat the pistons and combustion chambers. If you plan on monkeying around with your motor
add a set of EGT's. They are a good indicator of what is going on in your motor. We have
also used UFO's on all our roundslides. We like the product.
ARCTIC CAT: 580 Powder Special.
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Add the Arctic Cat Roller Secondary.
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For the Motor head, Contact Cutler Performance for the 670cc mod. You will need to send the carbs too. He bores them out to 40mm. We found the idle circuit difficult to tune. The fault was in the boring of the carbs. There is an air bleed on the manifold side of the carb that is changed when the carb is bored. Putting this bleed back to its original size and shape fixed the problem we were having. Thanks to AAEEN performance for this tip. You also need a set of pipes. The PSI's are nice but are LOUD. Cutler will set you up with a good clutch kit also.
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Dial a Jets worked very nicely on this sled. Get the dually kit.
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Add a set of K&N or similar filters.
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Added Cutler rear suspension.
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Buy a 141" 2" track and move your suspension back about 2.5 inches. No longer rails need to be bought. This mod really wakes this sled up (130 + hp) 17 degree approach angle and gets double takes from the new mountain boys. Gotta love the surprised look on their faces when you get to the top to say "Hi" to all them RMK's and Highmarks.
97 ZR 440. -
We turned this sled into a mountain sled for a teenager. Its now a 136 1.75. Did the usual no brainers, ceramic coated pistons and combustion chambers, replaced all lubricants with synthetics. Added K&N filters and tossed the air box. As the kid grows so will the sleds HP!
SKI DOO: 1998 583 Summit -
Buy the race manual
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GAP PLUGS TO .018! (read your manual!)
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Add EGT's, (100mm from piston)
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MBRP silencer: Great can! Not loud and lots of weight loss. 1-3 hp increase.
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Mill 20k off the head
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add 501 Rotary Valve. (degree)
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Open the chaincase and drop the top gear down to a 21 tooth (get the good gears made by FAST, not the lousy stock ones)
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Ceramic coating of the pistons and combustion chambers is good insurance against burndown.
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I also installed a set of UFO's. They worked as advertised. Anyone that whines about having to tune them in excess did not follow the directions.
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Install Arctic Cat roller secondary. A new jackshaft from Kinetic is needed. NOTE: Kinetic did not know that the jackshaft on a 583 is smaller in diameter than the 670. Their jackshaft is the same diameter as a 670. You need to purchase the disc brake hub, top chaincase seal, castlenut and lockwasher for a 670 for this to work. MY dealer charged me $80.00 or so. Be sure to align your clutches!!!
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Roll the chain case. I bought the kit from Kinetic. A little spendy but well made and comes with good instructions. You need a good grinder and cut off tool to make this job easier. Replace the center spring on the rear suspension with one from a 99 Summit. Spring force was reduced to 115 lbs.
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I made a cooling snorkle and vented the guard for the primary clutch. TRA tends to get hot.
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Installed a Super torquer TRA clutch kit. Used stock spring no tip weight. Only spinning at 7200. However, with the gear changes this set up does not bog. I have removed all the weight from the middle. Waiting for snow to try it out.
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Installed graphite slides and removed one set of idlers. Don't need them
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Installed a 144 2". Also got the extension kit from Kinetic. Instead of making the rails longer the idea is to position the suspension further back. The formula is 1/2 inch for every inch of increased track length. For this sled that was 4 inches. This decreases the approach angle significantly. It does affect handling a bit so some adjustments need to be made. Returning to the original front shock spring was necessary. Stiffer. Other than that the sled rides the same. EXCEPT for the ability to get on top of the snow much quicker. Also climbs very nicely.
YAMAHA: Mountain Max 600.
The owner of this sled is not as insane as the rest of us so his mods are a little more mellow.
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Install thinner head gasket. Don't get cheap here and peel the stock one like our dealer told us to do. BUY A NEW ONE.
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Drop down one tooth on the upper sprocket or add one on the lower.
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Install transfer rods. Several good ones are available.
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MBRP silencer. We like these guys. Martin is a decent guy, very helpful. Take the sway bar out. you don't need it. This sled is stable as it is. This made a huge difference in sidehilling.
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We suggest dropping down the main jet one size and go one position down on the needle. (Sea level to 3000ft riding)
1982 SRV
Added plastic ski's
Removed oil injection unit. Had to make a bracket for the fuel pump.
Installed 136 x 1.7, moved suspension back 3 inches and lengthened rails 5 inches.
Re-welded the steering post at the upper mount point. Stock job was lousy
Removed air box and added foam filters.
Will be making the arms for the rear suspension from chrome moly. Should lighten this up quite a bit.
The result on this sled should be very nice. The 540cc motor is very solid (92 hp) and I expect the sled now weighs in around 440 to 450.